It's worth a try :)
Clane Kaluna
Honolulu, Hawaii
On 10/26/2010 11:08 AM, Matthew Tinker wrote:
>
> Clane,
>
> you have volcanic rock in hawaii, this same rock is used for Kiln
> "furniture" in ceramics. It will if I remember correctly resists up to
> 800°C, so you could actualy build your furnace right ino the beach! As
> an alternative you could, if you have a source of clay fire bricks
> using a mixture of clay and volcanic dust. The dust is inert as it is
> allready fired. This would form what is known as "grog", which will
> not be altered by refireing. Ask a local potter about local clay
> sources. They sometimes are secretive about sources of clay! Making
> your own refratory from vlcanic dust could be very interesting. I
> don't know whether you have access to pumice, that should make good
> refractory material!
>
> I would be really curious to know how it works out!
>
> Regards, Matthew
>
> Matthew TINKER
>
> CNC conversion 1944 Colchester Lathe build-up log
>
> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35519
>
> --- On Tue, 26/10/10, Clane Kaluna <gear@hawaii.rr.com
> <mailto:gear%40hawaii.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> From: Clane Kaluna <gear@hawaii.rr.com <mailto:gear%40hawaii.rr.com>>
> Subject: Re: [gingery_machines] Propane Foundry Questions
> To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:gingery_machines%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Tuesday, 26 October, 2010, 22:15
>
>
>
> Joined it and I'm surprised that there is some overlap in the
>
> conversations, hehe.
>
> Thanks for the advice, I wasn't too sure if it would be safe having a
>
> galvanized steel container, and while it may be shielded by insulation
>
> and refractory cement from direct exposure to flames, alternative
>
> containers are convenient and easily accessible. Heck I'd even give
>
> that firebrick set up a try if I had some laying around.
>
> I think I've got a good handle on how to build that furnace, now all
>
> that's left is to figure out the crucible (& associated tongs, etc.),
>
> find some safety equipment give her a test run.
>
> Thanks Rexarino
>
> Clane Kaluna
>
> Honolulu, Hawaii
>
> On 10/22/2010 09:22 PM, Rexarino wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Clane, join the castinghobby yahoo group and search for mikey98118 There
>
> > has been a long in depth discussion of Mike Porter style burners
> over the
>
> > past couple of weeks, and even a reference to a preview of his book.
> There
>
> > are pictures of his burners here
>
> >
>
> > Joe's Porter
>
> >
> burner<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/photos/album/428435816/pic/1358621336/view>
>
> >
>
> >
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/castinghobby/photos/album/1845371510/pic/1487963195/view
>
> >
>
> > The exterior of the furnace can be anything that allows you to pick
> it up
>
> > and move it. Almost every kind of round container has been used, and
> some
>
> > that aren't round. One year at a local demo, a guy brought in a couple
>
> > dozen firebrick, stacked them with alternate joints with a hole for the
>
> > burner, stuck a crucible in and melted metal.
>
> >
>
> > The interior should be something that isn't galvanized, because
>
> > galvanizing
>
> > zinc will burn off and is a noxious/toxic gas. You can lessen zinc
>
> > poisoning with quantities of milk, but it's better to avoid it. The
>
> > cardboard tubes for casting concrete, called pier tubes locally, work a
>
> > treat. Leave an inch sized hole in the bottom for a drain, then plug it
>
> > with something you can pop out the bottom when you spill that first
>
> > batch of
>
> > molten metal (note: it is not 'necessary' to spill molten metal, but
>
> > Murphy
>
> > is always waiting)
>
> >
>
> > Make a podium or stand in the center to place the crucible on, and
>
> > introduce
>
> > the flame below the crucible, tangent to the inside of the furnace. You
>
> > want the flame to circle the crucible, but not impinge on it. Direct
> flame
>
> > will erode the crucible faster than normal wear. If using a Porter
> burner,
>
> > cast a refractory nozzle for the burner, but in every case, have the
>
> > burner
>
> > to hand before casting refractory, and make a tunnel (tuyere) that
> closely
>
> > fits the burner. You can cast right around the burner housing if it
>
> > will be
>
> > permanently installed.
>
> >
>
> > Dome the top of the furnace to reduce noise.
>
> >
>
> > You probably already knew most of that, I just got carried away...
>
> >
>
> > Rex
>
> >
>
> >
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/photos/album/428435816/pic/1358621336/view>
>
> > On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 8:10 PM, superclane <gear@hawaii.rr.com
> <mailto:gear%40hawaii.rr.com>
>
> > <mailto:gear%40hawaii.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> > > Howdy all. Two questions here:
>
> > >
>
> > > 1. Can't seem to find any metal 5 gal+ buckets (and honestly didn't
>
> > expect to) for the container for the foundry, but I did see a cheap
>
> > ~10 gal
>
> > galvanized steel garbage can at City Mill that might do. But my question
>
> > is, given the choice of materials that you could use for the
> container for
>
> > the foundry, what do you prefer? (Oh, and I am terrified of cutting into
>
> > spent propane containers, but if instructions are included to ensure
>
> > that it
>
> > is safe to do so, I'd give it a try)
>
> > >
>
> > > 2. I'm sold on the propane foundry, but as far as burners go, the two
>
> > that seem to keep popping up are the Oliver-upwind burner and the Reil
>
> > burner. Both seem do-able. I haven't worked with gas before, so I'm
>
> > fishing for advice on plans or instructions for a novice.
>
> > >
>
> > > Thanks guys!
>
> > >
>
> > > Clane Kaluna
>
> > > Honolulu, Hawaii
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > ------------------------------------
>
> > >
>
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> >
>
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
--
Clane K. H. Kaluna
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/app/peoplemap/view/map
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