If your saw is like mine where making an insert out of anything other than sheet metal is almost impossible, do what I did. I make wooden models and I needed a zero clearance insert. So I made a new top out of plywood that fits over the existing table. Stops position the new top front to back and hardwood strips fit into the existing miter slots. I made a new fence system that can be adjusted to within a few thou along with an new miter gage and sled for small parts. This makes my $130 Craftsman special perform like a much more expensive saw and my cost was a few scraps and my time.
Don
From: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com [mailto:gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tjwal
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 11:01 AM
To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [gingery_machines] Re: On Shaper Castings Question ...
Nick
Bang on about a good blade making all the difference. To quote a friend "I always thought it was supposed to smell like burning wood until I got a carbide blade."
JohnW
--- In gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com<mailto:gingery_machines%40yahoogroups.com>, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@...> wrote:
>
> You can make good insert plates out of hardboard (Masonite) and shim it to
> level with layers of masking tape. Using a zero-clearance plate, where you
> start with a plate installed, then turn on the saw and raise the blade up
> through to cutting height, is a bit safer. More importantly, it prevents a
> lot of chipout at the edge for smoother cuts in your stock. A decent blade
> is essential. At least a $25 or so blade vs a $10 one makes a big
> difference.
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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