I built a slip roll a number of years ago. Totally from shop scrap. I posted a photo under Greg (sorry for the quality)
Its 18 inches wide with 4 inch dia rollers, made from schedule 160 pipe. The bottom fixed rollers are chain driven together, Think they're about 8 inches apart. The top roll has a removable axle to facilitate removing a ring. All the rolls are on ball bearings salvaged from a snow mobile suspension.
The plate in the picture was 5/16 thick by 14 wide, roller effortlessly to that 14 inch radius, with the hand crank.
Have rolled tubes close to the dia of the top roll, once the ends touch you can trim the unrolled material off and continue rolling till the correct dia is achieved.
--- In gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> First of all, welcome to the group!
>
> I'm rather biased but have to say that building the Gingery shaper is a
> great experience. You already know not to be constrained to his original
> design.
>
> Your slip roll machine is very cool. I'm a sucker for simple designs and
> yours really appeals to me.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of michael
> Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 10:37 PM
> To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [gingery_machines] Re: slip roll machine
>
> Hi,
> name is Mike
> I'm new to the group so I guess this is as good a subject as any to jump in
> since I have some recent experience.
> I've had the book for years and had thought about building one but I decided
> I needed something much more substantial. Gingery inspired mine though, had
> it not been for the book I probably would not even known I needed a slip
> roll machine or even thought about building one myself.
> I'm most interested in building the Gingery shaper in the near future which
> is how I found this group.
>
> Having more time and scrap materials than sense or money I recently built a
> 24" machine with 2" dia rollers which is rather unique in a few ways for a
> small roller like this and shows how things can be improvised to do
> something without using the fancier and more expensive means found on
> commercial machines.
> The rear roll works on a chain drive to move in and out in sync for straight
> rolling but can be unpinned and moved independently for rolling cones. The
> lower pinch roll is adjusted the same way though the chain drive takeup and
> crank is not complete yet. BUT, it's not really needed. The pinch roll has a
> bronze shoed backup rest and 2 ton bottle jack driving it to really put some
> force on the sheetmetal when needed. I felt I needed this feature as I
> intend to add power to it via an old coal stoker tranny, 1hp motor I have
> and a crude homemade power disconnector similar to the method used on the
> little sherline lathe for the power feed accessory.
> The bottom pinch roll is driven by a crank. The top slip roll is driven by a
> chain sprocket ala Gingery. I still need to drill the axles for grease
> fittings and finish the chain drive for the pinch roll though the bottlejack
> actually works better and it's not needed really. Other than that it is
> pretty much done at least for hand operation. In a test it rolled a 12"
> section of some pretty thick SS sheet metal into a 3" tube with a some work.
> (that's why I want to add power) If powered I think it is probably capable
> of rolling 16 ga mild steel without much trouble.
> One thing leads to another, I had to make a ball turning attachment for my
> lathe to make ball handles for the sliproll locks.
>
> I uploaded some pics of the machine on photobucket if anyone is interested.
>
> http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/wpstretch/Tools/
>
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