[gingery_machines] Re: starting with the *charcoal foundry*

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Monday, November 1, 2010

 



Ok, I have finished the write-up for the foundry. The viking method
youtube video pretty much deemed my write-up of constructing the foundry
unnecessary but I had already translated a lot of material and had taken
a ton of notes. Therefore, I thought that I should just post it anyway
so at least you all can critique it for so I can ensure that everything
is correct.

constructing the foundry

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Clay-from-Indigenous-Soil

make a ceramic bucket via coil method

make sure that the bucket has a tuyere (a pipe will suffice) protruding
out from the bottom. the tuyere will probably have to be made first
seperately in two halves, then glued together and added to the bucket as
the bucket is drying/hardening. this is the tuyere is permanently
attached to the bucket one ½ inch hole should be made in the center
of the tuyere hose/pipe

make clay (ceramic) ruler

http://ceramicartsdaily.org/education/making-a-clay-ruler/

http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/units/length.htm

obtain height measurement of bucket

make two ceramic circles diameter 7-8 inches depth 1 inch

make a single sheet of clay length = circumference of above circle +
two inches height = height of bucket

http://www.peacefulmind.com/images/crystals/dia_circum.jpg

continuing with making the single sheet of clay. it should be made in
two halves. both halves will be modelled over a log or a pile of
rocks/sticks/etc. then after both halves are hardened, they will be
glued together with naturally occuring glues such as hide glue, hoof
glue, etc. after doing this, you will have the "form" for the
foundry

http://www.nacltd.co.uk/making.html

http://www.diydata.com/materials/glues/natural_glues.php

http://boingboing.net/2009/05/18/stone-age-superglue.html

make clay "blocks of wood/wooden strips" via coil method p45

put the "form" in the bucket and use the clay "wooden
strips" the hold it in place

make the refractory lining = mix the sand and clay

put the lining in the bucket two inches at a time and pack it down
uniformly before add the next layer p44

when the sand reaches the top and all the clay strips are out, take out
the "form" from the bucket. next, put sand into the bucket
until it is level with the tuyere

the bucket should look like or similar to the bucket on p45

now, cure (aka fire) the bucket [[ if you wish to fire the bucket at
a later date, just be sure that you cover it with a wet cloth i.e.
animal skin, plant cloth (cotton, etc.)

[curing means hardening by heat, additives, etc.] ]]

http://www.ehow.com/how_5149833_make-primitive-pottery.html

http://www.ssrsi.org/Onsite/PrimNG/pots.htm

curing the bucket can be accomplished via the sun (sun bake it) or pit
furnace or via other means i.e. I could make a wood or charcoal fire
and cure it that way

make another single sheet of clay width: 2 inches length:
circumference of bucket + 1 inch

use the clay ruler to divide the sheet of clay into 12 equal sections
which means measure the entire length and divide it by 12 the answer
will be length of each section drill a 1/8 inch in the center of
each section and also drill two ½ holes on each end that equates to
12 1/8 holes and two ½ holes

note: in making the clay ruler, finding the length of one inch is easy
since it equates to the width of one's thumb. but how does one
determine 1/8 of an inch? What about ½ of an inch? Common (not
obscure) rulers that use inches divide each inch up into 16 parts. That
means in constructing our clay ruler and it's measurements, we will
need to mark the width of our thumb in the dirt or clay or wherever.
then find one small object that will fit into that width measurement
outline that we made in the dirt 16 times perfectly. after we find the
correct object then we use that to make the measurements for our clay
ruler

http://mathforum.org/library/drmath/view/58333.html

p46 I'm totally confused... what is he talking about when he
mentions the "lid form"??

maybe he (Gingery) is referring to the "lid form" that will be
used to cover the furnace as it melts the metal if so, then in my
case, I don't require the a lid form like the one he is referring
to. I just need a thick clay lid that I can pick up with the clay tongs
I use to handle the crucible with. What I had in mind was making a flat
thick sheet of clay and then in the middle, place a stick or something
and then make a clay bridge. allow it dry/harden and then I should be
able to move the lid with clay tongs

p50 regarding the shutter/gate did I miss the part where Gingery
discussed this or is this shutter/gate part of the tuyere? How do I
control the flow of air in my setup then? Maybe I control the flow of
air with my setup by how fast or slow I pump with the animal skin
bellows that I make. Is that correct?

make a long rod diameter: ¼ inch this rod will be used to stir
the melted metal to discern it's fluidity (whether it is ready to be
poured into the mold or not)

make skimming clay spoon p51

on p51, he mentions salvaging metal from the dross by pressing it
against the side of the crucible what is used to press the dross? the
skimming spoon? or something else I haven't mentioned yet? I
presume pressing the dross will be akin to squeezing water from a
sponge? Also, I am only supposed to skim the big chunks of dross,
right? Not the small layers that form after I skim the big chunks.
Correct?

on p51 , he mentions adding metal slowly for two reasons. #1. to avoid
freezing what has already been melted.

a. Regarding that statement, is he saying add metal slowly because the
metal that I'm adding to the crucible has a lower temperature than
the metals that have already melted and if I add to much too fast then
the cooler metal that I'm adding will freeze the melted metal?

OR

b. Is he saying add metal slowly, so I don't keep the lid off
furnace too long. if this is the reason, then I presume he is saying
that the longer I keep the lid off of the furnace, the more the outside
air will cool the heated metals....? Which one is correct?

p53 exactly what is this "die cast metal" that he writes about
on this page? that is a specific type of metal? I don't see
anything about it on Google...

regarding "zinc die cast metal/pot metal", I think this is
simply metal that one doesn't know what the composition of it is.
It isn't something that you make, it just indicates a metal that has
been used for some reason or another and is now scrap/junk. Is that
correct?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal

p54 open mold casting

make sure there are bricks on top of the mold to hold it in place and to
ensure that the molten metal doesn't run out of the sides/parting

p55 he mentions the porosity of the sand relieving the pressure of the
molten metal entering the mold. he mentions "venting with the
wire" also relieving the pressure. What does he mean by that? And
how does it apply to what I'm doing since I don't have any wire
that I'll be using with my design?

Thank you! The write up for the two sand casting projects that Gingery
has me do is next. I having trouble with the second one which is
casting a ball crank handle.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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