Actually what you are saying should be a radius really should be draft. which means an angle so the top of your pattern is flat and with draft on the sides so it will easlily slide out of the sand.
I believe the figure should be about 3% to 5% smaller at the upper surface.
Wonk
--- In gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com, "primepowerpro" <randycook@...> wrote:
>
> I made a pattern for the lathe bed today. I used a piece of walnut that crossed back and forth from heartwood to sapwood, since no one wants something made of walnut that isn't all dark wood. I milled the side material down to .30", to ensure that even after sanding, it would be over .25" thick everywhere. I milled the material for the top down to .75" and rabbetted the sides and ends of the top .30" either way, then, after glueing up, used a jointer to true up the bottom. Once the bottom was flat, to use as a reference, I put the whole thing through the planer, and took the top down until the overall height was 1.5", +/- 0.001". It's as flat and true as I know how to make a piece of wood.
>
> The book says that every edge that isn't on the parting line has to be radiused, but it doesn't say what value to assign to the radius. I have a 1/16" roundover bit for may router table; will that do it?, And, since the bottom edge is at the parting line, does that mean they don't get rounded?
>
> BTW, thanks for the replies I got to the last post, including the tangiential ones on material toxicity.
>
> Randy
>
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