Depends. Is the part going to be machined, is it for looks, etc? With small part just breaking the edge with a piece of sandpaper is fine. If you going to machine the part put as big a radius as you want without reducing the machining allowance. Just trying to say, it's what ever you want to make.
Dave Patterson
odd_kins@yahoo.com
http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundry_home.html
--- On Tue, 12/7/10, primepowerpro <randycook@cox.net> wrote:
From: primepowerpro <randycook@cox.net>
Subject: [gingery_machines] What radius on lathe parts?
To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 7, 2010, 1:30 PM
I made a pattern for the lathe bed today. I used a piece of walnut that crossed back and forth from heartwood to sapwood, since no one wants something made of walnut that isn't all dark wood. I milled the side material down to .30", to ensure that even after sanding, it would be over .25" thick everywhere. I milled the material for the top down to .75" and rabbetted the sides and ends of the top .30" either way, then, after glueing up, used a jointer to true up the bottom. Once the bottom was flat, to use as a reference, I put the whole thing through the planer, and took the top down until the overall height was 1.5", +/- 0.001". It's as flat and true as I know how to make a piece of wood.
The book says that every edge that isn't on the parting line has to be radiused, but it doesn't say what value to assign to the radius. I have a 1/16" roundover bit for may router table; will that do it?, And, since the bottom edge is at the parting line, does that mean they don't get rounded?
BTW, thanks for the replies I got to the last post, including the tangiential ones on material toxicity.
Randy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/app/peoplemap/view/map
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