Shannon,
The repair process I use is to weld the end with a combination of the
internal heat generated by the current flow and the flame from a MAPP torch.
Works good and is almost free.
http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/we.pdf
My element is in a close fitting slot so there is no room for a nut and
bolt.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shannon DeWolfe
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 4:41 AM
To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [gingery_machines] Re: My first casting
Excellent idea, Bill.
I found several element repair pages with the term "kiln element repair"
in Google. Be careful of the advice given on some of the web sites. I
read in the third hit returned with that phrase about "testing" the
element with water, deliberately stressing the wire. I don't know much
about kilns but that doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
You've got choose your search terms with an eye toward the end goal.
Looking for the" Monel splice" would be like searching for "drive screw"
-- both exist but good luck with the search engines returning useful
information. BTW -- the "pins" or "round head rivets" that attach most
nameplates are actually screws with a very coarse multi-start thread.
They are driven in with a hammer. Search the McMaster-Carr for "drive
screw". I never knew they could be "unscrewed" (with some effort and
probable damage to the badge you are trying to save) until learned this
just recently on the Logan lathe list.
Ceramic wire nuts -- another applicable search term.
Regards,
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/app/peoplemap/view/map
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