I suspect you will find the 3 D printed patterns a hassle as you will need to do a lot of grinding and filling to take care of imperfections? Most I've seen were off from the drawing and needed a lot of work!
Of coarse I've only seen rip/rap type 3D and commercial grade probably is better?
Pattern making is not all that hard and using the hobby lumber from the craft store and glueing things together works a treat. This saves a lot of time in making the Gingery machines and since the pattern is mostly only used once can have hollow voids, and thinner sections. Since the lumber stock is thinner and usually pretty straight to start with. I cut everything out with a coping saw and used a hand drill as needed , lots of glue, ( gorilla glue type instant glue and elmers water based wood filler for fillets and smoothing corners) some sand paper and a can of varnish. I've even used balsa for some patterns! Making patterns is not like general carpentry and is really much easier than most think!
Good luck on your drawings and 3D stuff hope you will post photos as you proceed!
Cheers Wonk
--- In gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com, Cole <coleston@...> wrote:
>
> Rick thanks for the kind words, no one has ever bothered to 3D model the
> plans before? Seriously? If that's the case I'll upload them once I get them
> done.
>
> On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 10:40 AM, Cole <coleston@...> wrote:
>
> > I haven't actually sat down and done ZA casting yet, because zinc is a
> > mofo, and I hate welding galv enough, but I've researched the hell out of it
> > and have all the material. Just not even gonna bother doing practice pours
> > until the patterns are ready, thanks for the heads up though.
> >
> > The piece I was talking about forging was a 70 year old Acme pipe label
> > that I wanted to flatten and make a belt buckle out of. So brittle. Bye bye
> > antique. I was sad but then a friend brought over a really old emblem from
> > some sort of V12 car and I made bronze buckles out of that instead, which
> > turned out pretty awesome, albeit ridiculously heavy for a belt buckle.
> >
> > Not interested in cast iron in the slightest though. ZA is more than
> > interesting enough for me.
> >
> > On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 8:55 AM, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Cole,
> >>
> >> Not a lot of cast iron done with this bunch but zinc-aluminum alloys
> >> machine
> >> like cast iron (which is very good) yet the stuff melts at a lower
> >> temperature than pure aluminum. You may want to do a search for "ZA".
> >>
> >> If a casting breaks, I would melt it down and cast another rather than
> >> weld
> >> it. As for attaching castings together, fasteners and pins work well. Some
> >> use epoxy which seems to hold better than fasteners as long as you never
> >> want to take it apart.
> >>
> >> Not sure why you would want to forge it since you can cast its shape.
> >>
> >> As for melting cast iron - very high temperatures done with a special
> >> furnace. Not something I would do alone.
> >>
> >>
> >> Rick
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
> >> [mailto:gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cole
> >> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2011 4:59 AM
> >> To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
> >> Subject: Re: [gingery_machines] Forge? Sand? Cope/Drag? Practice? Stock?
> >> Tools? Tig? Everything? Check, Check, Check... Pattern Making?! Not so
> >> much.
> >>
> >> And no cast-iron... I've tried welding it and it explodes, I've tried
> >> forging it and it shatters, I don't even want to find out what it does
> >> when
> >> you melt it.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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