Ron,
I really like this method of adjusting the square. I didn't realize this type of square's corner joint was a friction fit. I do have a number of one piece squares. I trued them up by scraping.
As mentioned in a past article, I bought a toolroom grade reference square. I use it with my surface plate to test the rest of my squares. This is much faster than using 3 squares worked together until they are equal.
Thanks!
Rick
On May 30, 2011, at 5:41 AM, Ron Thompson <ron@ourcadguy.com> wrote:
> On 5/29/2011 10:22 PM, RG Sparber wrote:
>> Ron,
>>
>> I was not aware that this square is adjustable. Beyond hitting the joint
>> with a prick punch, how do you adjust it?
> I took a college level machine shop course several years ago. The
> instructor showed us how to hold the thick leg of a machinist square and
> gently tap the other leg on a piece of pine 2x4 laid on a sturdy
> surface, such as a work bench. Each tap will move the leg a little. Less
> is more, as you don't want the joint to loosen over time and you don't
> want to ding the square.
> Then you test the square against another on a flat surface. He used a
> granite surface plate and cleaned it first.
> Ideally, you should have 3 squares to check against each other.
>
> A quick and dirty square when you have no other is a piece of paper.
> Fold a sharp crease and then fold another while aligning the first
> folded edge to itself. Perfect 90 degrees.
> Of course there is no such thing as perfect. The longer the first
> crease, the more accurate the angle.
>
> --
>
>
> Ron Thompson
> On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA
>
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