Hi guys!
Nice info you got there...perhaps Ron is correct not to use mill
cutters on the spindle chuck. My approach is different, I learnt this
trick from my training school long ago. I would grind my drill bit
almost flat. With a 0.5mm normal drill bits slightly bigger, I drill a
shallow step as a guide and use this flat drill to counterbore and
c'sink or debur with a hand-drill.
If the c'sunk hole is deep, I would use the ratchet brace like the pdf file.
Steve-S'pore
On 6/1/11, Ron Thompson <ron@ourcadguy.com> wrote:
> On 5/31/2011 7:24 PM, RG Sparber wrote:
>>
>> This is another article in my series for people new to our hobby. It deals
>> with drilling, tapping, and counterboring a hole for a Socket Head Cap
>> Screw
>> using the technique called match drilling.
>>
>> If you are interested, please see
>>
>> http://rick.sparber.org/dtc.pdf
>>
>> Comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of
>> us.
>>
>> Rick.
>>
> Nicely done. One small criticism.
>
> <soapbox>
> End mills should not be held in drill chucks. I know, everyone does it.
> But your articles are aimed at newbies.
>
> End mills are as hard or harder than the drill chuck jaws. This can and
> does do damage, especially if it slips.
>
> The right tool for this operation/in this machine/ is a piloted
> counterbore. They have the advantage of a ofter shaft and a removable
> cutter. This is handy for reverse counterbores where the tool is pulled
> into the work from the opposite side.
>
> On the other hand, if the machine you were using was a mill, and it had
> the right holder for the endmill, your operations would be appropriate.
> </soapbox>
>
> Now I'll quit being anal.
>
> --
>
>
> Ron Thompson
> On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center,
> USA
>
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>
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>
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>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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