Rick I do the same in one setup, with the top and bottom pieces clamped in the mill. one hole at a time, but no disassembley of the pieces until complete.
Drill the tap drill to the proper depth or through both pieces, as required. Use a stop to set the depth.
Remove the tap drill, install the body drill, set the stop or use a dial indicator for the depth of the body drill. This will countersink for the threads if done right.
remove the body drill and counter bore or counter sink as required. An off center counter sink will move a part more than an offset counter bore.
Remove the clamps and tap the bottom piece without clamping it. Use the drill press or mill, manually(turn by hand), to start the tap. this keeps it inline with the axis of the hole. The tap will self center on the hole when started this way. All holes are finished, except for the tapping operation without breaking down a setup. if done right the only debur left is to the top of the counterbore or countersink and if you drilled through both pieces, the bottom of the tapped hole. This can be done with either a mill or drillpress.
Dave Patterson
odd_kins@yahoo.com
http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundry_home.html
--- On Tue, 5/31/11, RG Sparber <rgsparber@aol.com> wrote:
From: RG Sparber <rgsparber@aol.com>
Subject: [gingery_machines] new article available: Drill, Tap, and Counterbore
To: valleymetal@yahoogroups.com, gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com, mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2011, 4:24 PM
This is another article in my series for people new to our hobby. It deals
with drilling, tapping, and counterboring a hole for a Socket Head Cap Screw
using the technique called match drilling.
If you are interested, please see
http://rick.sparber.org/dtc.pdf
Comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of
us.
Rick.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/app/peoplemap/view/map
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