Ron
I think the grade steel doesn't matter that much. The reason I say is I have a nice set of HSS drill bits, and they are just as good looking as my mill end cutters. But one thing that will ruin a good chuck is to lock a bit up and spin. It just takes one time. When we use equipment with respect for safety in mind we will not get into those problems. And by the way I sometimes will use a end mill to get a flat bottom. I'm not saying it is right or wrong, but it is done.
Nelson Collar
--- On Wed, 6/1/11, Ron Thompson <ron@ourcadguy.com> wrote:
From: Ron Thompson <ron@ourcadguy.com>
Subject: Re: [gingery_machines] new article available: Drill, Tap, and Counterbore
To: gingery_machines@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 1:28 AM
On 5/31/2011 7:24 PM, RG Sparber wrote:
>
> This is another article in my series for people new to our hobby. It deals
> with drilling, tapping, and counterboring a hole for a Socket Head Cap
> Screw
> using the technique called match drilling.
>
> If you are interested, please see
>
> http://rick.sparber.org/dtc.pdf
>
> Comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of
> us.
>
> Rick.
>
Nicely done. One small criticism.
<soapbox>
End mills should not be held in drill chucks. I know, everyone does it.
But your articles are aimed at newbies.
End mills are as hard or harder than the drill chuck jaws. This can and
does do damage, especially if it slips.
The right tool for this operation/in this machine/ is a piloted
counterbore. They have the advantage of a ofter shaft and a removable
cutter. This is handy for reverse counterbores where the tool is pulled
into the work from the opposite side.
On the other hand, if the machine you were using was a mill, and it had
the right holder for the endmill, your operations would be appropriate.
</soapbox>
Now I'll quit being anal.
--
Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA
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1. This is what I have done...
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