Joined it and I'm surprised that there is some overlap in the
conversations, hehe.
Thanks for the advice, I wasn't too sure if it would be safe having a
galvanized steel container, and while it may be shielded by insulation
and refractory cement from direct exposure to flames, alternative
containers are convenient and easily accessible. Heck I'd even give
that firebrick set up a try if I had some laying around.
I think I've got a good handle on how to build that furnace, now all
that's left is to figure out the crucible (& associated tongs, etc.),
find some safety equipment give her a test run.
Thanks Rexarino
Clane Kaluna
Honolulu, Hawaii
On 10/22/2010 09:22 PM, Rexarino wrote:
>
> Clane, join the castinghobby yahoo group and search for mikey98118 There
> has been a long in depth discussion of Mike Porter style burners over the
> past couple of weeks, and even a reference to a preview of his book. There
> are pictures of his burners here
>
> Joe's Porter
> burner<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/photos/album/428435816/pic/1358621336/view>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/castinghobby/photos/album/1845371510/pic/1487963195/view
>
> The exterior of the furnace can be anything that allows you to pick it up
> and move it. Almost every kind of round container has been used, and some
> that aren't round. One year at a local demo, a guy brought in a couple
> dozen firebrick, stacked them with alternate joints with a hole for the
> burner, stuck a crucible in and melted metal.
>
> The interior should be something that isn't galvanized, because
> galvanizing
> zinc will burn off and is a noxious/toxic gas. You can lessen zinc
> poisoning with quantities of milk, but it's better to avoid it. The
> cardboard tubes for casting concrete, called pier tubes locally, work a
> treat. Leave an inch sized hole in the bottom for a drain, then plug it
> with something you can pop out the bottom when you spill that first
> batch of
> molten metal (note: it is not 'necessary' to spill molten metal, but
> Murphy
> is always waiting)
>
> Make a podium or stand in the center to place the crucible on, and
> introduce
> the flame below the crucible, tangent to the inside of the furnace. You
> want the flame to circle the crucible, but not impinge on it. Direct flame
> will erode the crucible faster than normal wear. If using a Porter burner,
> cast a refractory nozzle for the burner, but in every case, have the
> burner
> to hand before casting refractory, and make a tunnel (tuyere) that closely
> fits the burner. You can cast right around the burner housing if it
> will be
> permanently installed.
>
> Dome the top of the furnace to reduce noise.
>
> You probably already knew most of that, I just got carried away...
>
> Rex
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/photos/album/428435816/pic/1358621336/view>
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 8:10 PM, superclane <gear@hawaii.rr.com
> <mailto:gear%40hawaii.rr.com>> wrote:
> > Howdy all. Two questions here:
> >
> > 1. Can't seem to find any metal 5 gal+ buckets (and honestly didn't
> expect to) for the container for the foundry, but I did see a cheap
> ~10 gal
> galvanized steel garbage can at City Mill that might do. But my question
> is, given the choice of materials that you could use for the container for
> the foundry, what do you prefer? (Oh, and I am terrified of cutting into
> spent propane containers, but if instructions are included to ensure
> that it
> is safe to do so, I'd give it a try)
> >
> > 2. I'm sold on the propane foundry, but as far as burners go, the two
> that seem to keep popping up are the Oliver-upwind burner and the Reil
> burner. Both seem do-able. I haven't worked with gas before, so I'm
> fishing for advice on plans or instructions for a novice.
> >
> > Thanks guys!
> >
> > Clane Kaluna
> > Honolulu, Hawaii
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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