Nelson,
I agree that a nut needs just a few threads to hold. IIRC, it really only contacts 1 or 2 surfaces and the rest do nothing unless things start to deform.
Say I drill and tap a hole. Then on the right side I mill down until only, say, 3 threads are left. Then I side mill away from the hole. When viewed from the top I will have a slot that is blind until I get to the tapped hole. Then I will see the vertical face with threads cut into it.
The slot can be milled all the way to the flank of the nut.
Flip the part over and mill another slot on the other side that leaves 3 threads on the opposite face. When the "nut" is aligned with the threaded rod, threads will mesh on the left and right sides and the nut will be secure. As I unscrew it, I can tilt the nut and the threaded rod will move into the two opposing slots. Then the threads disengage and the nut freely moves along the rod.
I don't see any limitation here with regards to nut thickness versus diameter of the threaded hole.
I'm unable to access my shop right now so can't make one and see if it works. So what am I missing?
Rick
Rick.Sparber.org
On Jul 28, 2011, at 6:53 PM, Nelson Collar <nel2lar@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Rick
> I think I lost something. A common nut need X number of threads to guarantee it will not just strip out. Thus, if you have a Smart-Nut that is 1.5" tall and a little over 1/3 threads remain on the top to the left side and the bottom of the Smart-Nut has 1/3 of it's threads on the right side. What you end up with is ½" worth of threads and that should make a secure nut that would hold with light torque. One thing I think we are over looking is the nut is made of a larger diameter of stock than a common nut is made from and the base of the nut is what pulls the upper threads in and holds. At least that is my experience.
> Happy Machining
> Nelson Collar
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